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Lawn Repair and Seeding
 
We offer several types of repair options depending on your situation.  Some examples include.
 
  1.  Scratch and Seed
  2.   Aeration and Overseeding
  3.   Complete Renovation
     

 

 

 Please enjoy the slide show of a lawn renovation in progress.

 

 

Scratch and Seed is best used on small areas (less than 2,000 sq.ft.) where turf is spotty and with little to no thatch build-up.  We will scratch the surface with a rake and sprinkle seed and paper mulch over the top.  Ground must be moist with no standing water.  April, May, June, September, early October is the preferred time period.

 

Aeration and Overseedingis best used on larger areas where the grass is just a little thin or several bare areas exist.  Aeration is the process of pulling small plugs from the ground.  We aerate the lawn twice, once in each direction and then address bare areas a little more aggressively with a third or fourth time.  After aeration we will apply a high quality grass mix and fertilizer specific to your site over the top.  No paper mulch or straw is used.  Ground must be moist with no standing water.  April, May, June, September, early October is the preferred time period.

 

Complete Renovationis a last resort.  Ideal for lawns that are too far gone to repair by either method above.  This is a good way to redo lawns that are bumpy, have insect damage, or have been rutted by trucks or construction.  New home installations welcome.  Ideal for sites less than 15,000 square feet.

 

This method involves tilling the soil to a depth of three to five inches.  During this process, small stones will be buried while larger stones two inches and bigger will be pulled out along with any other debris.  The benefits of tilling include.

 

  • Faster, more even seed germination.
  • Less erosion and seed run off. 
  • Breaks up compaction from foot and vehicle traffic.
  • Creates a smooth level surface for mowing.
  • Buries small stones, clods, and overgrowth.
  • Extracts unwanted debris from top layer of soil.
  • Reduces chemical usage for site preparation.
  • Competitively priced vs. traditional methods.

 

NEW Temporary Irrigationis available to help give your lawn a jump start in those first 10 days.  Keeping new seed moist is vital to its survival.  New seed with mulch needs to be watered at least 3 times per day for 10 days.  When you sign up for this service you will save money instantly because you won't need mulch.  So you save the cost of the mulch, the labor to apply it, and because it uses timers, you won't over water which saves more money on the water bill.  Plus, you don't have to worry about it so, go to work, be happy, and in two weeks you'll have some grass.

 

   

Choosing your options for seed, fertilizer, and mulch.

 

Forseedwe offer high quality mixes for sun and shade or, you can customize your seed mix to taylor your specific needs.  Our default sun mix is a kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and red fescue blend with no annuals, while our shade mix comprises of two kentucky bluegrass varities, two fescue varities, and perennial ryegrass.

 

For fertilizerwe offer a special combination (NPK) which will help reduce rust during the first two years.  Several applications should be applied during the first growing season for optimal results.  Your contract will state whether this application is included.  To schedule additional applications contact your Lawn Enforcement professional.  If you choose to do this yourself, follow all label directions and apply additional applications at 8 and 16 weeks out respectively during an active growing season.  Not more than 3 per year.

 

For mulch we offer straw / marsh hay which is very good for holding moisture if it doesn't blow away.  Secondly we have several paper mulch products available, seen on lawns as the blue / green stuff which is used in hydroseeding.  This product won't blow away, it doesn't hold the moisture quite as good at straw, and it will float away and pool in some locations if a heavy down pour occurs.  It is however, great for small spot repairs in lawns.  If you have good water pressure, I suggest the temporary irrigation system and no mulch listed above.

 

 

After Installation, what happens next?

 

First, I'd like to clarify that not all seeding jobs will turn out sod like appearances in six months, a lot will depend on factors like soil type, drainage, amount of sun, temperature, weather conditions, what you do to help your new lawn out, etc.  Let's start with watering.

 

Watering 101 the first 10 days.  It is day one, Lawn Enforcement just left and your suppose to start watering.  Great, set your sprinklers out in a manner that you won't have to go out and move them for two weeks.  Why?  Because once that soil is moist you will sink up to your ankles in mud.  You don't want that, position everything to be easily accessible without walking on the newly seeded areas.

 

Watering 102 the first 10 days.  During this time period you'll want to water 2-4 times per day.  The key is not to let that new seed dry out.  The new seed is located at the surface so you don't need to water very long.  The very first watering we'll run a little longer, say 30-45 minutes, this will get the soil good and moist.  Then all later waterings will only be for 10-20 minutes, just enough to keep that surface moist.  Hot sunny days will require a lot more watering than cool cloudy days.

 

Watering 103 after germination.  So your seed has germinated and is about 1 inch tall (say about 2 weeks after initial seeding.)  Great, the hard parts done.  You can now reduce your watering almost completely.  If we're coming upon a drought and everything is looking dry you better not stop watering entirely.  Those new seedlings will not hold up well to hot, dry weather for prolonged periods.  Continue watering so that your new grass will receive the equivalent of about one inch of rain per week.  Try to water in the early morning prior to 10 am and in the evening, but stop at least an hour before sunset so the turf can dry out. 

 

The following will apply only to established turf.  Never water during the heat of the day this will scortch your turf and stunt it's growth. Also, do not water at night if it's going to be hot, this could potentially create a breeding ground for diseases. 

 

Weeds will be coming up along with your new seedlings, we did not plant these, they were already in the soil.  Do not apply a weed killer to your turf at this time, it will kill or stunt the new grass.  Wait until after the 3rd. mowing or at least 8 weeks after any seeding has been done.  Follow label directions.

 

Lawn Rolling may need to be done if the soil seems to be a bit bumpy, wait till after a good long, slow rainfall to do this.  Wait until turf is 3 months old and do before an aeration if you plan to do both.

 

Soft Ground wherever you walk?  Your site may have just been tilled, if so, this will take a little time to settle, sometimes several months or more.  This would be a good time to roll the lawn if it is bumpy.

 

Mowing your lawn for the first time?  Wait until the majority of the grass reaches 4.5 inches in height, then mow at 3 inches and continue this height throughout the season.  First and last cutting of the year at 2 inches.  Never mow more than 1/3 of the plants height at one time.  Do not allow clipping clumps to form on lawn, these can sufficate turf and cause injury.  Change mowing patterns weekly to reduce tire track markings.

 

 

Why is it taking so long for my grass to thicken?

 

Please be patient, sod like turf doesn't happen overnight.  if it's been over 6 months of good growing conditions and you've followed these plans and continued the fertilizer treatments as scheduled, then it may be time to try a couple extra things to help it along.

 

First, perform a soil test, this will tell you what's going on with the soil.  Then have your lawn aerated, apply any fertilizers, etc. that the soil test says your lacking and overseed with more grass mix at this time.  This should give your turf a nice boost.  The thicker and taller your grass, the fewer weeds and crabgrass you'll have.

 

Always follow label directions when appling fertilizers and weed control, any information given on this website is just a guideline.  Always consult your local professional before performing any items listed here-in.